Heritage Delaware Hatching Egg

Heritage Delaware

To begin with, what makes a chicken a Heritage Breed ? According to the American Livestock Breed Conservancy (ALBC) it must be defined as follows:  “Heritage Chickens must have the genetic ability to live a long, vigorous life and thrive in the rigors of pasture-based, outdoor production systems. Breeding hens should be productive for 5-7 years and roosters for 3-5 years.”

Heritage Delawares have been on the chicken scene since 1940, developed by one Mr. George Ellis who hailed from Delaware, as a meat production bird for the commercial industry and for a short lived period as the broiler bird of choice.  He started off by crossing a Barred Rock with a NH Red and went from there.  After selective breeding and developing his "silver sports",  he had his finished product and it was recognized by the American Poultry Association Standard of Perfection in 1952 as The Heritage Delaware.

Unfortunately,  for the Delaware,  soon thereafter around the mid 1950’s , the mutant Cornish Cross was  developed to begin the saga of fast food (around the same time that KFC was coming onto the scene fast and furious) and big Box Super Markets where in their infancy but a rapid projection of growth was expected and planned for.  Even though the Heritage Delaware was bred for faster maturation –and still does mature faster than most Heritage breeds - it was not fast enough for the instant gratification society we were destined to become.

Since so many are now looking  to provide healthy options for their families, chicken is many times the first meat choice in the farming venture.  Most start out with the Cornish Cross broiler and for many in turns into a horror show.  So if they are still up for another round they go in search for a different breed.  The Heritage Delaware will fit the bill nicely.

Heritage Delawares are on the ALBC list as “Threatened” which is only one step from “Critical”.  This breed has played a historic role in homesteading and in the commercial chicken market and as more educate themselves on the health risks and overall morality of “factory farming”  - it will once again become a popular choice.

For more information Mother Earth News has a wonderful article on Heritage Delawares.

 http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/delaware-chicken-heritage-poultry.aspx#axzz2dSn5ghPH

I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this rare Heritage Breed.  

How do you "Winterize" the Coop?-

Summer was so fleeting here in Maine,  and I have heard from friends and family,  in many other parts of the country as well.  We had an abnormal amount of rain and humid hot days.  Not many pleasant sunny enjoyable days.  Unfortunately, many lost feathered and furry friends (bunnies do not like the heat either) alike to heat and excess humidity.  We lost a Blue Ameraucana hen that was broody during a 2 week heat spell.  Despite pulling her off the nest several times a day to drink  - alas.....

Now the exact opposite is on the horizon.  Old Man Winter is yawning as  Jack Frost is poking at him to wake up and play.  Winterizing the coop means different things for different people.  There are many different options and methods.  Much depends on what climate one lives in and how harsh or mild winters can be.

I love nothing more than to watch large snow flakes pile up outside the picture window with a hot "cup of joe" in hand.  We recently were part of an event called Poultry Palooza and Carabassett Coffee Company - based right here in Maine - was wonderful and helped sponsor the event.

Winters can be very harsh here in Maine and we lean towards the deep litter method at Clover Run,  however,  is not without its own set of challenges.  I will post separately about the Deep Litter Method later.  For now I would love to hear from you and how you manage the winter months in regards to warmth, water and even feed changes etc.


Let us know your way of surviving the cold months and what climate you are dealing with.

The Molt is Upon Us!! Are you Ready?

As Autumn rolls in and the days start to shorten, so too will the number of eggs your layers produce.  The signal to molt will trigger and feathers will start to fall.  This typically occurs on an annual basis and can take as long as 16 weeks to complete.   Really good productive layers will molt hard and fast and will look pretty sad quickly.  Talk about a bad hair day! 

Although there has been no definitive study to connect the dots between lessened egg production and molting - basic observation and common sense (and of course our Grandparents say so) tell us that it happens that way.  Protein is a main ingredient in egg production as well as in plumage growth (feathers are 85% protein).   So, if protein is being siphoned for feather regrowth, then it stands to reason that a poor hen cannot do both. 

So how can we help our feathered friends and get those eggs back as soon as possible?

Right before molting, feathers will start to dull – that beautiful shine will start to dissipate.  Feathers on the head and neck will fall out first, followed by the back and tail and so forth. 

At this point, adding some high level protein to their diet is key.  One thing I learned from some, older and wiser, is to go get a big bag of cat food (smaller pieces) and mix it into the feed.  Adding fish, mealworms and earthworms are other options.  Alfalfa pellets are another good source of protein or sprouting sesame and/or alfalfa seeds are also a great additive to the molting diet. Sprouting the seeds provides a larger quantity and improves the protein quality.  If you have them to spare, scramble up some eggs and crushed shells and feed them back to the flock.

An issue that can arise during molting season is pecking and picking.  As newly growing feathers emerge (called pinfeathers or blood feathers) they can be very attractive to the beak as they contain a visible supply of blood.  As most flock owners know – red can cause all kinds of crazy in a flock.

Having a can of Blu- Kote at the ready can help prevent attempts of cannibalism from occurring. (Blu- Kote is an essential part of a poultry first aid kit.)  As the feather matures the blood supply ceases.  That is why broken feathers do not grow back until the next molting season.

So, be sure to stock up on a few protein additives and be ready for the upcoming molting season.  This will help get egg production back in action and your flock “fully feathered” before temperatures drop.

This post was shared on the Homestead Hop!
http://www.modernhomesteaders.net/homesteaders-blog-hop-8/

 Legal mumbo jumbo:

We are not Veterinarians  - we are sharing information that we have learned from those we feel are qualified as experts and what works for us.  We strongly suggest that everyone do their own research and decide what will work best for them.

Northern Fowl Mites

Northern Fowl Mites

Northern Fowl Mites (NFM) are very dangerous for our feathered friends here in Maine.  We tend to have a long season of cold weather that provides ideal temperatures for these evil little creatures. 

Autumn and Winter are fast approaching so a refresher on prevention and treatment is timely.

The NFM lives it’s entire life cycle on its host - the chicken in this case - and can do plenty of damage in a short period of time.  If infestation is bad you will see them even during the day and if you handle infested birds they will crawl on you and on eggs as you gather them from nest boxes.

 

Prevention, again, is first and foremost – clean shavings.  DO NOT use hay in your coops – even to add warmth for your birds.  Hay is a flashing neon invitation for NFM.  Straw is a good alternative. 

When cooler weather is indicative of the coming Fall,  we use a light dusting of DE (food grade Diatomaceous Earth) and a pyrethrum powder, barn lime and cedar shavings mixed in with the pine shavings.  Cedar repels NFM and adding some cedar shavings mixed with pine in nesting boxes is a good deterrent as well.  Straight cedar shavings should be used with caution.  Do your own research on use of cedar shavings with poultry.

DE: When using DE do so with caution – it can be harmful if inhaled (to both humans and poultry).  Mixing it in with the shavings in moderation helps keep the dust part down.  Doing this in the morning while the flock is out of the coop gives everything time to settle.  When researching the use of DE in raising poultry you will find that there are very different opinions by leading experts.  So one must decide for oneself what works for them.

Monthly dustings of birds “backs and bums”   with a pyrethrum powder is also a good deterrent.   A tip shared from one of our mentors is to put the powder in a knee high nylon stocking and tie a knot.  Then pat between the wings and the vent area as you let them out in the morning one by one.   There are many who are against treating “for no reason” and using a chemical based substance.  However, there has been no proven “Natural” method for deterring and treating mites.  I know firsthand of a few who learned that the hard way and finally -  after watching birds suffer and die begged on public forums for advice and conventional methods.  We try to be as natural as possible here at Clover Run but we also are going to be proactive with something –like NFM – which are known to be a problem in our climate area.

If an infestation occurs there is no other way to eliminate NFM without using a pesticide.  Be sure to choose one safe for poultry.  We have had one infestation here at Clover Run – we had hay stored upstairs in the Silkie Cottage and we are certain that it was the invitation needed despite prevention efforts.  A couple phone calls to mentors older and wiser than we confirmed that yes indeed – it had to be the hay.  In order to eradicate we removed all birds from the cottage – removed all shavings, nest boxes, feeders, waterers,  etc.  Every inch was sprayed down with a poultry safe insecticide spray for mites.  Each bird was bathed with a shampoo for dogs that removes fleas, etc.  The shaving mixture mentioned before was then added with more cedar then we would normally use and a lot of pyrethrum powder mixed in as well.  A new dust bath with DE and pyrethrum powder was mixed.  (Be sure to follow the ratio guidelines for using DE in your dust bath.  Many do not realize you have to mix it and the ratio is important.  Do not use straight DE for a dust bathing.)

It took a couple weeks to completely rid the cottage of NFM.  No insecticide has yet been created that can kill the nits, so all treatment has to be repeated in 7 and then again in 14 days from initial treatments.  Having fought the hard fight – prevention is much easier than waging the war!!  We hope no ones has to and with some preventative measure to make sure they are not welcome we should all be in good shape.

Legal mumbo jumbo:

We are not Veterinarians - we are sharing information that we have learned from those we feel are qualified as experts and what works for us.  We strongly suggest that everyone do their own research and decide what will work best for them.

Coccidiosis 101

 Coccidiosis 101

Poultry Palooza 2013 was fun and informative.  A good start to an annual event for poultry lovers both experienced and new.

  We had a guest speaker from Kent Nutrition who is also a member of the Applied Poultry Science Group here in Maine.  Many topics were discussed and one was Coccidioisis.  I have received many, many messages on Facebook and emails from panicked chick owners describing chicks with symptoms of coccidiosis.  These chicks came from various suppliers: feed stores, direct from hatcheries, local livestock swaps and neighboring farms etc.  It is easy to think that something must have been wrong with the chicks or the original environment may have been less than desirable/unhealthy,  and while that surely is possible there are more likely scenarios. 

The first signs/symptoms of coccidiosis is bloody stool, loss of appetite, listlessness and usually paleness in the comb area.

I have been very, very fortunate to have not had an outbreak of coccidioisis but after our seminar I realize it is no doubt a matter of time and here is why:

There are 9 different species of coccidiosis! 

 If you have chickens it is present on your farm/coop too.  So even if you purchase healthy chicks from a neighboring farm and bring them home – exposure to a new species and the stress of a new environment can bring on the symptoms.  Coccidioisis can raise it’s ugly head in older birds as well but it seems to be less common.

So what can one do?  The key is to think PREVENTION!

There are a couple options to help build a chick’s immune system – but there is no 100% way to prevent coccidiosis.

Medicated chick starter (we use a mash) is one option to build resistance over the first few weeks of a chicks life. By 8 weeks old they typically have developed enough of an immunity.   However, be sure that it is the correct medication in the feed – the feed we use contains Amprolium.  (Make sure the medication added to the feed is for whichever disease you are trying to build a resistance to.)   While Amprolium will help build a resistance,  it will not eliminate or even build resistance to all 9 species of coccidia.  
 

A medication called Corrid is another option – it is added to water and administered over the course of 5 days.  This is another way to boost the immune system for resistance – not a cure or vaccine.  Apparently there is a vaccine for coccidia as well, but again - not 100% and no guarantees - as it only effects 1 out of the 9 species of coccidia. 

 

As with any disease prevention measures  - good sanitation is key.  Proper nutrition, access to clean water at all times and clean shavings (or your choice of bedding) are all imperative to prevention of all possible disease and play a vital role in helping prevent Coccidiosis as well.

So now what?  What can be done if even medicated feed and actual dosing of Corrid are not effective enough to prevent these nasty little evil advanced organisms?  

 If you already suspect Coccidiosis has infected your chicks  - a lab test would have to be completed in order to determine which species of Coccidia is present.  The correct medication could then be prescribed – the wrong medication could possibly do more harm than good.

Legal mumbo jumbo:

We are not Veterinarians  - we are sharing information that we have learned from those we feel are qualified as experts and what works for us.  We strongly suggest that everyone do their own research and decide what will work best for them.

Has Spring Actually Arrived? Finally!!

I feel as though today actually felt like spring had arrived.  We still have big patches of snow but it is melting quickly.  We walked around today and mapped out some new runs.  We have to finish the LF Cochin run first - hopefully by end of the week.  My splash roo - "Robin" - is doing his business with his black pullet "Cher" even though she has not started laying yet.  We have a few more young ones to add - 2 are Mottled and Frizzled - very excited about that. 

We are also modifying the existing hen house by splitting it and giving the Heritage Delawares one side and a very large run to themselves.  They have been wintering in the barn and eager to get out. 

We are also building a run for the new additions - Cream Legbars - really excited about them as well!  Will be a just a breeding quad.  I just love the egg color!

The Silkies are moving out of the cottage to the barn with new inside pens and outside runs.
The cottage will be modified into the Bunny Barn and we can expand our NZ Cali breeding program and get started on Jersey Woolys and Dwarf Hotots.  I have both here ready to go but winter was just too cold for little babies!

I have added Wheaten Americaunas and a couple Marans to the laying flock for a colorful eggs basket.

Looking forward to building some raised beds - that area is still fully blanketed in snow though. 

Best Chicks to Start With

What are the best chicks to start with?  I am asked this question a lot.  The answer is:  why do you want chicks?   I know - answer a question with a question.   However, it is necessary to answer a few questions before the best chick  - for you - can be chosen.  So here are a list of questions and options.

Is the priority egg production?  If so, there are many prolific egg layer breeds out there.  White Leghorns, Rhode Island Reds, White and Barred Rocks for example.  There are also hybrids that are bred for an egg a day production.  I am personally an advocate of purebreds and even better Heritage breeds.

Looking for a beautiful egg basket? There are several breeds of chickens that lay gorgeous colored eggs.  Americaunas lay a pastel blue egg, OliveEggers (this is a cross bred bird specifically for getting these colored eggs) provide a darl olive green egg, Cream Legbars lay an almost robins blue colored egg, EasterEggers (another cross bred) will give pastel pink, blue and green eggs.  Marans come in different color varieties and all give a dark brown almost chocolate shade egg.  Marans come in Black Copper, Birchen, Blue and Buff just to name a few.  If you want white eggs you can look at the White Leghorn and LF Polish.

Do you want both eggs and possibly provide healthy chicken for your family freezer?  This is where  Heritage dual purpose breeds comes into play.  I personally like Heritage Delawares - we raise them.  They are fast growing and great egg layers and wonderful meat birds.  Another option is the all purpose and cold hardy Buckeye.  My good friend over at Wee Acre Farm raises them.  Both these breeds are on the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy list as threatened.  I like the feeling of making a difference in farming's history by helping conserve these breeds.

Do you want eggs and eye candy?  Maybe you don't need an "egg a day" but still appreciate fresh farm eggs and would like something really pretty and/or fun.  Large Fowl Cochins and Crested Polish are a couple very fun options.  You can also get them "frizzled" which means the feathers all curl creating quite the site.

Do you like a smaller size chicken?  Then the world of Bantams is at your fingertips. There are so many Bantam breeds.  We raise Silkies here and love them for many reasons.  The egg is small but very usable.  They are the "poodle" of the chicken world.  They are very sweet in temperament and still hardy for winter coldness.   Bantam Cochins are another bantams that many love.  They are a ball of feathers all the way down to their toes.  They come  in many fabulous colors.  If you are wanting even smaller then the d'Uccles are a one way to go as well as Olde English Game.  There are so many bantam options.

Is climate of concern?  Up north freezing temperatures are of great concern as well as the heat waves of the south.   Keep this is mind when choosing a breed.  Large combs for example are more likely to get frostbite in winter than a rose comb for example.


This is just to get you started.  There are multitudes of breeds of chickens to choose from and depending on who you are talking to - everyone has their own personal favorites for good reasons.  Research carefully each breed you are interested in and then find a local breeder to talk to and ultimately purchase from.   Try to obtain chicks from a farm that is focused on quality over quantity to insure good health and the traits you are wanting from that particular breed.