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Friday, March 8, 2013

Incubating and Hatching Fertile Eggs

I have received many many questions about incubation and hatching eggs.  So many are starting up for the first time - this is great!!  So here is a quick tutorial based on much -  much research and consulting with mentors with many, many years of combined experience.  I do not believe in trial and error if there are tried and true ways to do something.

Most newbies start off with a styrofoam style beginner incubator.  One of the first things I will say is if you follow the directions that come with it you are probably in for some deep frustration.  The humidity settings usually suggested are just way too high resulting in chicks drowning in shell.

The second suggestion is to do yourself a favor -  get the automatic egg turner.  Eggs have to be turned an odd number of times a day - so 3 or 5 for example - every day.  Making sure that is done on a schedule is impossible unless you never leave your home. (There are many who prefer hand turning but I am unfortunately too busy and if there is something to make life easier then do it).  The auto turner takes care of all of this for you.

It is important to regulate your new incubator for about a week prior to adding that first batch of eggs - this can be a frustrating process and requires patience and time - hence the week lead time.  I use a combination digital thermometer and humidity gauge. 

Temp should be 99.5 - 100 degrees.  Everyone will agree on that (I think).

Now the following is about humidity - there will be some who disagree but I am sharing what works for us and others that I respect highly in the "chicken circles" I am in.

There is a method of incubation called "dry hatching".  I follow this method somewhat.  Chicks take 21 days to incubate and then hatch.  So during days 1-18 I keep humidity at 35-45.
Depending on which styrofoam incubator you use - it may be difficult to see the water channels in bottom if the egg turner is in.  A trick from one of my mentors - use a sponge (new) and place in the incubator anywhere along the side and add water to the sponge.  The goal is to add moisture to create humidity so it does not have to be in the bottom channels.

On day 18 - eggs need to be removed from the egg turner and replaced into the incubator.  Allow them to rest naturally on their sides.  The chick inside will then position itself to hatch.

Your incubator has now become a "hatcher".  We actually have an incubator set up to be used solely for hatching out the last 3 days.

Add water so that the humidity increases to 60-65 - any higher and you risk drowning chicks.  Once all eggs have been returned to the incubator you are now what is commonly known as "lockdown".

Days 19-21 will produce peeping chicks.  You will see small cracking at first called "pips" or "pipping".  The chick has broken through to air sac and is now working to get out.  It will then continue to "zip" around the egg and then finally push out with legs. Allow the chick to rest and dry out some before moving to brooder.

There are different thought as to when a chick should be removed from the hatcher.  There is the thought that none are removed until all have hatched.  That leaving the hatched chicks in will motivate the ones still in process.

Then there is the thought that they should be removed fairly soon as they will knock the other eggs around creating topsy turvy for the poor little guys still inside their shells and they will not  know which end is up.

I have done both and tend to remove them sooner than later.  I do though have a habit of tapping on the glass to "wake up" the ones still in process.  They will tire out and need some motivation. This is another tip from a mentor.

I hope this helps and please ask any questions and let me know if I left anything out.
Happy Hatching!!!















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