Decadent Hot Cocoa in the Slow Cooker

 Old Man Winter came in fast and furious literally overnight. It is beautiful and cold.  So what better time than to make some Decadent Hot Cocoa!  Even better let your slow cooker do it for you.  Be warned this is very rich and a little goes a long way.  We are dealing with chocolate here and it should be dark and rich right?

You will need:
6 Cups Whole Milk
2 Cups Heavy Whipping Cream
1 (14oz) Can Sweetened Condensed Milk
1 tsp Vanilla
2.5 Cups Dark Chocolate Chips


Add all ingredients to your slow cooker and stir with a whisk to combine.  Put the cover on and set timer for 2 Hours on High Temp.  Stir occasionally about every 30 minutes.  After the 2 hours Cocoa will be ready to serve.  Switch to Warm Setting and ladle into mugs.  Add some marshmallow and Enjoy!

You can easily double this for a party or gathering.

I would love to know what you think.  Please comment if you try it.  Stay warm and safe!

Preparing a Doe for Kindling

We have had some amazingly nice weather here in the Northeast. Yesterday it was 60 degrees. Last year at this time we had snow and loss of power due to a storm. However, as I type the snowflakes are falling. Winter is here! So for those who breed year round and/or newer ones that have not decided on a plan to do so or not: I can honestly say I have NEVER lost kits on the wire - The reason being is I do not ask my Does to kindle on wire bottom cages. I kindle all my Does - regardless of breed in solid bottom cages - I offer a nest box at one end but it is up to her if she chooses to use it - 1 week prior to due date expectant Does are moved to the "nursery". A few inches of shavings and a very large flake of hay and a nesting box - (I use saved shoe and boot boxes from my kids) A day or two before the Due date I place a large towel over the cage if I feel a Doe is a little more skittish or if it is a first time mother or even first in our barn. Most of the time they choose a corner and build a beautiful nest and kindle as happy as can be. after a day or so I will move the nest and kits into the shoe box (if she did not choose to use it) - only so they cannot wander out of the nest and get cold. This is what works for me - I have way too much invested in both time and finances to take any changes on losing valuable kits. I see so many posts on many different breeds pages about losing kits on the wire - or "went out to check and she had them early and did not use the nest box". Something that is lamented all to frequently on social media pages from all breeds and levels of experience. I feel that we as humans have become somewhat arrogant in dictating to a prey animal where they must have their offspring - they are instinct driven and most vulnerable, on high alert and most susceptible to stress when babies are due. Forcing them to make a decision without any real choices could be construed as cruel. to add insult to injury, many breeders will actually cull Does for refusing a nest box in wired bottom cage - using a so called 3 strike system. I make sure they have as many options as possible to make their own choices and have a favorable outcome: live and healthy litters with content brood Does.

Heaven Sent Bread Machine Cinnamon Rolls

It is 4 degrees here in Maine this morning with  -11 wind chill.  Not as cold as last week but we are suppose to be in a January thaw.  So where is it?  I personally do not consider this a thaw-  Brrrrr!    Since it is too cold to be outside I decided to make these Heaven Sent Cinnamon Rolls - using one of my favorite kitchen gadgets - the Bread Machine.

Here is a good reason to dust yours off if you have not used it in a while.  If you do not currently have a bread machine - I highly suggest one. They can be found at second hand shops and flea markets -  relatively inexpensive.  I bought the one I am using today for $15 and 2 others for $5 each.  I have 3 bread machines because I use them all simultaneously when making jam.  (Easy Peasy Bread Machine Jam)

I like to pre-measure all the ingredients.  That way when I am interrupted umpteen times by the little saplings I do not forget what I have done.  This will allow ingredients to reach room temperature and soften if needed.   Also, everything is put back away and I feel like clean up is half done before I even starting!  You will need 3 sets of ingredients for 3 separate steps. So here is the first set:

1 cup Warm Milk
2 Eggs - room temperature (Duck Eggs are even better if you have access to some)
1/3 cup Butter (or margarine)
4 1/2 cups Bread Flour
1 teaspoon Salt
2 1/2 teaspoons Bread Machine Yeast

The second set is:
1 cup Brown Sugar (very packed)
2 1/2 Tablespoons ground Cinnamon
1/3 cup Butter (softened)

And the third set is for the Icing:
1 (3 ounce) package Cream Cheese
1/4 cup Butter (softened)
1 1/2 cups Confectioners Sugar
1/2 teaspoon Vanilla Extract
1/8 teaspoon Salt

You will notice on your Bread Machine there is a Dough option button or in the digital menu.  That is the option you will use to make the dough for these super yummy rolls.

You want to place the ingredients from the first set in your bread machine pan.  Place them in the order recommended for your machine.  If you purchased second hand - a quick internet search will garner a user manual.  Typically I find that it is liquids first, dry ingredients and yeast last.

Now select the Dough option and hit start - voila!  The machine will tell you how much time it will take. Now you can go flip the laundry or read a book.  I am uber jealous if you are going to read a book!

Once the machine has finished the dough will have doubled in size

     Lightly flour your work surface and turn the dough out.  

                                                   Cover with a tea towel and allow to rest for about 10 minutes.

                                                                                                             

While dough is resting mix the brown sugar and cinnamon from  second set of ingredients together in a small bowl -  set aside the butter.

Roll out the dough in to a rectangle approximately 16"x20" in size.  

Spread the dough evenly with the softened butter set aside from the second set of ingredients.

Spread the the brown sugar/cinnamon mixture as evenly as possible onto buttered dough.

Now is the fun part!  Roll the dough and cut into the rolls. 

 The thickness is up to you and that will of course effect the yield.  You will get 10-12 rolls cutting at approx 2 inches intervals.

 Place the cut rolls in a lightly sprayed/greased pan and cover again with a tea towel for about 30 minutes. Preheat the oven for 400 degrees. Perfect timing!  I hear the dryer buzzer.

The dough will have risen to about double in size.  Bake in preheated oven for 15-20 minutes.  Check at 15 and go from there - every oven is a little different. 

While rolls are baking - gather the ingredients from the third set.  Time to make the icing! 

Beat together cream cheese, 1/4 cup softened butter, confectioners sugar, vanilla extract and salt.  It will be a little thick.  Spread on the rolls while still warm. Icing will melt  into all the the nooks and crannies. Yum!

 

Easy Peasy Bread Machine Jam

A some of you have probably surmised by now - I love gadgets! - especially kitchen gadgets.  I believe that if something makes life easier then of course!  Having 3 little ones as well as the poultry flocks and the rabbitry,  I cannot be tied to the stove stirring and watching for hours at a time.

So I am very happy to make my jam in the bread machine - or I should say - have the bread machine (all 3 of them) make jam for me -Yeah!!  I purchased all 3 of my bread machines second hand and all work great.  Make sure your machine has the "Jam" setting button - it usually near the bottom of the menu.

Having tried many recipes for bread machine jam, I found them pretty much all to be too sweet for my liking.  Fruit and berries are already sweet and I want to taste the fruit/berry of choice. So after researching, tweaking and trying here goes!!

This time I made "Jamboree Jam" using frozen berries - I had about 1/2 # of raspberries (from Wee Acre Farm) and 1/2# of strawberries and I added 1# of blueberries (also from Wee Acre Farm).

**Note: If your bread machine has a 2# loaf capability then by all means double this baby!! :-) I did!!

So here's what is needed:

1 Pound of Fruit or Berries of your choice (or mix thereof)  - fresh or frozen

 3 Tbsp of LOW/NO-Sugar Pectin - this is Important!

 1 Tbsp Lemon Juice

 1 C sugar

Prepare the fruit as appropriate - wash, hull and chop into small pieces (ie apples/peaches) or smash (ie berries)  Using just a fork will work just fine.  For this batch I cut the larger strawberries into quarters and smaller ones in half.

Add into the fruit/berries the pectin, lemon juice and sugar -stir it up!  Pour the mixture into the bread pan and place into the bread machine and select "Jam" cycle.  That's it!

(Now go flip laundry - load the dishwasher  - strip the beds -vacuum - feed the cat - gather the eggs - prep dinner -  get the oil changed in the minivan -(or in my case go work on a paper due in a few days)  you get my drift ;-)

When cycle is complete  - remove the pan from the bread machine and allow to cool for a bit before pouring into container or jars.  Do not completely cool or it will set up in your bread pan.

There are two options at this point you can refrigerate and/or freeze OR hot water bath/can it.
Refrigerate for up to 3 months and freeze for up to 12 months.  I chose to refrigerate this time as we will use it before 3 months are up.

Would love to know if you plan to try this or have already made jam in your bread machine.
What kind did you make and how did you like it - was it "Easy Peasy"??




This entry was shared on the HomeAcre Hop!
HomeAcre Hop head on over!

Raising Rabbits as MicroFarm Livestock

It is our firm belief that whomever coined the phrase "Breed like Rabbits" was not actually breeding rabbits or we, as a culture, misinterpreted their meaning.

With the rise in interest for a more self sustaining lifestyle, MicroFarms, Farmettes, and Homesteads are growing at a rapid pace. The small farms movement is going strong.  A MicroFarming Overview can be found here.  Rabbit is making a slow but steady comeback to the American diet.  It is sold in many grocery stores across the country and was once as prevalent as chicken in the weekly meal planning of American families. 

Livestock is a component to most farms and rabbits are a perfect fit for MicroFarming. Rabbits require much smaller habitats compared to most all other livestock including poultry. So once one decides they want to raise rabbits as a meat option what's next?

Habitat

There are several options for housing rabbits.  How one is going to house their rabbits is a very important decision and needs to be established before moving forward.  Some traditional options are cages and hutches.  If you have a barn or similar enclosed structure then cages may offer you the most space.  Rabbit breeds that are used for meat production will be on the larger side so the largest cage size is most desirable.  Outdoor hutches are another option - ideally they need to be large enough and have an area that allows the rabbit to completely escape the elements as needed.  Colony style raising is becoming very popular and has its pros and cons.
We highly encourage everyone to do a lot of research on the different housing options to see what will serve your situation best.  It is very important that the space needed per rabbit is respected in order to have healthy and happy rabbits. For larger rabbits ranging from 8-12# a minimum of 4-5 square feet of floor space with a minimum of 14" in height is the recommendation.  A cage that is 36"x24"x18" will make for a very happy rabbit.

If bedding is needed,  pine shavings are the go to choice. Cedar is a no no and saw dust can cause respiratory issues. Rabbits can be litter box trained as well using pine pellets - no cat litter,  as again it can cause respiratory issues.

Location for weather purposes should be thought out as well.  Rabbits do not tolerate high temperatures.  Having them in a shaded area rather than open sun is going to help to an extent. In the harshest summer months frozen water bottles and cold ceramic tiles will go a long way in helping them stay comfortable and healthy.  Heat can be a literal killer.

Just as high temps will have an ill effect so will freezing temps.  Most breeds will acclimate as the seasons change but high winds can create a hostile environment that is not survivable. Rabbits must be able to escape the winds and any type of precipitation. Wet and cold will be a lethal combination.


Choosing a Breed

There are so many options when it comes to what breeds to chose from.  Research, research, research is the key.  Choosing a breed that matches your climate is important. Traditionally New Zealand Whites (NZW) and Californians (Calis) are the most recognized breeds for meat.  When crossing these two you get a NZ/Cali and a fast growing meat rabbit.  Many new to raising rabbits start with a pair or trio of these.   We raise NZ/Calis and will be adding Creme d Argent this year.  We raised them in the past and loved them.

American Rabbit (Max weight: 12 pounds)

American Chinchilla (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Beveren Rabbits (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Californian (Max weight: 10 1/2 pounds)

Champagne d'Argent (Max weight: 12 pounds)

- See more at: http://www.raising-rabbits.com/meat-rabbits.html#sthash.8h6ka7wf.dpuf

American Rabbit (Max weight: 12 pounds)

American Chinchilla (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Beveren Rabbits (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Californian (Max weight: 10 1/2 pounds)

Champagne d'Argent (Max weight: 12 pounds)

- See more at: http://www.raising-rabbits.com/meat-rabbits.html#sthash.BQx9rGnb.dpuf

American Rabbit (Max weight: 12 pounds)

American Chinchilla (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Beveren Rabbits (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Californian (Max weight: 10 1/2 pounds)

Champagne d'Argent (Max weight: 12 pounds)

- See more at: http://www.raising-rabbits.com/meat-rabbits.html#sthash.BQx9rGnb.dpuf

American Rabbit (Max weight: 12 pounds)

American Chinchilla (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Beveren Rabbits (Max weight: 12 pounds)

Californian (Max weight: 10 1/2 pounds)

Champagne d'Argent (Max weight: 12 pounds)

- See more at: http://www.raising-rabbits.com/meat-rabbits.html#sthash.BQx9rGnb.dpuf

You can find out about many breeds of rabbits suitable to raising for meat here Livestock Conservancy Rabbit Breeds.  Heritage breeds also offer the chance to be part of conservation efforts for endangered breeds.

There is a trend with a lot of small farms to add "Giant" blood into their meat rabbit breeding programs.  Be careful if considering this - bigger is not always better.  Giant breeds grow slowly and consume a lot of feed.  The meat to bone ratio also does not match that of traditional breeds. The cost to raise to processing weight may not be in your best interest.  Another consideration is if you have any future plans of selling to a processor they may state very clearly "no giant blood". 

 Feed

Rabbits dietary needs are easily met and there are couple options.  Most common is pellet feeding.  Choose a brand of feed that is both high in quality and readily available to you.  Rabbits do not respond well to sudden changes in feed.  Gradual transitions are needed to ensure health.  Rabbit pellets typically come in 16% and 18% protein content.  Most successful "rabbiteers" will suggest 18% for a better growth rate.  Fodder feeding is another option for those wanting to cut down on feed costs or  get away from a commercially processed feed.  There is a great resource here if interested in learning more: Beyond the Pellet

Keep in mind that feeding a fodder diet slows growth in comparison to straight pellets - so you likely will not make processing weight of 5-6#  in the optimal 8-10 weeks.  We plan on incorporating fodder this spring as part of the daily diet while still feeding pellets.

Hay is a very important daily requirement of a rabbits diet.  It helps with their digestive tract and with keeping teeth growth at bay.

Having a piece of wood to chew on is also important for healthy teeth.

There are some supplements that can be added to the diet routine for specific reasons.
Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (BOSS) is a great supplement in cold weather.  It is a "hot feed" and a Tbsp daily in winter months is a nice practical treat.  Just be careful to remember to use sparingly if at all in summer months.
Calf Manna is a welcomed supplement to pregnant and nursing does. 1 Tbsp daily  is sufficient so a small bag will last a long time.
Papaya Tablets are helpful in reducing internal hairballs.  Papaya tablets can be given daily for 1 week out of each month.

Of course leafy greens and vegetables are always welcome to a healthy rabbit's diet - here is a comprehensive list of foods that rabbits can have and ones that should be avoided: Safe Foods List.

Breeding

What age one should start breeding a young doe will vary based on who you ask.  Larger breeds take longer to mature than smaller/dwarf breeds.  Many say around 8 months for larger (meat) breeds and we also hold to this practice here.  Some will point to commercial operations that breed very young and "back-to-back" as justification for early breedings.  My argument is that commercial/factory farming practices have already been proven to be epic failures and horribly inhumane.

Does do not "come into heat".  They ovulate after mating.  It is considered best practice to bring the doe to the buck's cage.  This way he will focus on the job at hand instead of exploring new surroundings and she will not be territorial of her space.   They may engage in a "round and round we go" chase before getting down to business.  Bucks sometimes take a few moments to get the right end of things based on his experience level. Does are not always "in the mood" and if she chooses to not lay still and "lift" for him this date may have to take a rain check.  More experienced breeders might hold a doe or do a table breeding.
Ideally,  at least three "fall offs" are desired to ensure a good breeding session.  A "fall off" is unmistakable as the buck will literally fall over.  If you have to ask then it probably did not happen.

Experienced breeders all have their own methods of breeding based on what works for them.  Some say first thing in the morning and others say evening is best.  Some will tell you to breed the pair again the next day as extra insurance.  It is not advisable to leave a doe in with a buck unattended.  Does have been known to literally rip off a bucks genitalia once she has had enough of his company.

Temperatures and daylight hours play an important role in successful breedings.  High temperatures can make bucks temporarily sterile and breeding a doe in high temperatures could lead to a complicated birth and loss of litters.  Many breeders adopt a no breeding policy in the heart of the summer months.

Shortened daylight hours can cause a doe to not be interested.  She knows it is winter and not ideal circumstances to be having kits.  If you choose to breed in winter months it is vital to make sure the doe has everything in place to be successful.  Starting with, out of the elements housing and unlimited amounts of hay for nest building.  Due to potential risks many breeders also opt out of winter breedings.

We feel that does who kindle in winter months should not have strikes against them for losing kits and even entire litters.  We as humans are asking them to do something that is completely against their instincts and that causes stress.  Rabbits have an extremely low tolerance for stress and can cause them to behave in ways that they may not under better circumstances.  This behavior many times gets does labeled as "bad mothers" when in fact she may only be doing what nature dictates she do for survival.

Does "pull fur" usually right before kindling.  The amount of fur a doe pulls will vary.  Temperature plays a role - less fur in warmer  - more fur in cooler.  Sometime they will also pull more fur a day later.

Kits

If breeding was a success,  then kits will arrive 28-31 days after, so mark your calendar.  Some does will start nesting far in advance of due date.  We have a Lionhead doe that starts a week after being bred.  She chooses a corner and continuously works on it.  So we make sure she has plenty of hay.  It is not unheard of for does to start nest building 1-2 weeks prior to kindle date.  So if she starts gathering hay or digging in the same spot -  provide her a nest box. On the other hand many literally build a nest just before giving birth.  If you are providing a nest box it is a good idea to provide it at least one week prior to due date.  There are so many options for nest boxes - do your research and decide what might work best for you. 

Not all does want to use the provided nest box. I have always felt it is somewhat presumptuous of us humans to dictate where a doe must give birth.  There are so many stories of "she would not use the nest box and had the kits on the wire and they all died!  She is a bad mom and we are going to cull her."  The issue could simply be that she did not have an alternative to the nest box.  Rabbits have very strong instinctive survival drive.  We have found that making sure an expecting doe has plenty of hay will allow them to have the alternative of building a nest where they choose.  If they choose to build outside of the nest box you can move her alternative nest into the box later.  When we have a doe that we know chooses to not use a nest box we move her to a solid bottom cage a week before kindle date.  With pines shavings and plenty of hay she can make a nest as she chooses and kits are not on wire.  For us it is about having a successful outcome of a healthy litter of kits.  There are many breeders who will not agree with this thought process and that is of course okay.  Everyone must research and do what they feel works best for them.

Once the kits are here it is okay to check on them.  It is a myth that the doe will reject them.  These are domestic rabbits - they are used to all the scents in their environment including their caretaker.  Take a quick count and make sure there are no stillborns that need removed.  This is not uncommon.

Does only feed a couple times a day and they do not "hang out" with their kits.  You will know they are nursing as kits will have firm little round bellies.

Kits can sometimes be "dragged" out of a nest while attached to a nipple. Having a kit guard on the front of the nest box can sometimes help with this but not always.  A kit guard will keep kits from wondering out of the nest too soon though. A kit guard is simply a small piece of wood attached at an angle to the nest box entrance.

Kits can start venturing out of the nest as early as 2 weeks.  They will start exploring, nibbling on mamma's food and learn to drink water in the ensuing days.  If a nest box was used - turning it on its side so kits can easily go back to is helpful as they may not be able to climb back in. 

Does will, of course, naturally wean their kits.  Anywhere from 6 weeks on is typical. There are breeders that choose when to wean kits.  We let our does decide.  Sometimes a doe will tolerate her kits after weaning and others will not.  She will let you know based on her behavior towards them.  We always remove kits by 8 weeks and separate bucks from does into grow out pens.

So you have 8 week old kits - now what?  Weigh them to see how close to processing weight they are - they may need more time.  Make sure you have researched how to dispatch/process or find someone to show you if you are not experienced in this side of things.  Another option is to find a processor in your area who will -  for a fee -  process them for you.

When to rebreed the doe is also going to vastly vary in opinion.  Some will breed a doe back right after they kindle, some while kits are still nursing, some will right after weaning.  This is something each individual needs to research and decide on their own.  We give a break to our does in between litters.
This entry is meant as an overview - not a comprehensive guide by any means.  It may raise more questions than it answers and that is a good thing.  Doing your own research is the best way to learn and is much encouraged.  Raising rabbits can be a fun adventure or a heartbreaking one depending on who you talk to.  We have found it to be fun and rewarding and look forward to expanding.

Legal mumbo jumbo:

We are not Veterinarians - we are sharing information that we have learned from those we feel are qualified as experts and what works for us.  We strongly suggest that everyone do their own research and decide what will work best for them

This post was shared with Homestead Hop #13 
so hop in over and take a peek!

MicroFarming - Overview

Most will have a similar picture in mind when they hear the word "farm".  Rolling fields or pastures dotted with sheep/cattle or both.  A big red barn with a horse in the paddock.  Chickens free - ranging around a hen house and ducks on a pond.  Large vegetable gardens bordered by orchards and berry bushes.  Okay well maybe not everyone conjures up my dream farm.  Since this picture perfect farm is not feasible for us right now - we are MicroFarming.  This lifestyle is catching on quickly and many are asking what is it exactly?

Well is is pretty much self defining: a tiny farm.  It is still debatable in many circles as to what size constitutes a MicroFarm - my definition is a fully functioning farm on less than 5 acres - in our case a whole whopping 1 acre.  You will be amazed at what you can produce on 1 acre.

As the overwhelming evidence of grossly inhumane treatment of animals in factory farms comes to light and our fruits and vegetables are "pre-poisoned" (genetically/spraying) for our dining pleasure - more and more are resourcing local food options.  This includes our own back yard.

When considering to take a go at MicroFarming a lot of pre-planning is highly suggested.  When working with limited space you do not want to have too many do-overs.  It can have a domino effect on everything else already in place.  So ask yourself, why do I want to farm?  What are your goals?  Healthier food options, cut down on grocery spending, create some additional income, shrink your environmental footprint?  Usually it is a combination of all of these - at least it was for us.

Most farms, of any size, all have similar components:  Crops, Livestock/Poultry, Orchards/Berries.
So you need to decide which of these components to incorporate  - only on a much smaller scale.


Crops are usually going to be in the form of vegetable gardens.  Although growing a specific flower or herb in more abundance for resale is often done as well.  When microfarming, the raised bed method of growing is best for maximum yield in minimum space. I highly recommend learning about Square Foot Gardening and the research behind it.  We will be adding square foot beds this year.  We are also proponents of using what is available and recycling.  So we also use tires with great success.

            

Livestock. So a flock of sheep or herd of cattle are not conducive in a microfarming scenario.    Meat, fiber and dairy are usually the reasons to have livestock.  Rabbits and goats tend to be the go to microfarming livestock.  You can get fiber and meat from rabbits and you can get fiber, meat and dairy from goats.  Rabbit manure aka bunny berries/bunny beans,  is well known to be the best garden fertilizer.  It is almost instant gratification as no composting is needed.

 Some microfarms even have a dairy cow and raise a couple pigs each year.  We have rabbits for meat and eventually will add Angoras for fiber.  We will add African Pygmy goats in the future for dairy (goats milk soap).  Livestock husbandry needs to be carefully planned as well.  Appropriate housing needs to be provided not only for the immediate animals brought in but also future offspring and additions. Research is key to help determine the appropriate numbers to settle on.  Are you raising only for self consumption or will you offer offspring for sale as well?  Keeping living areas clean and tidy can be time consuming and  overcrowding is never a good thing.  Healthy and happy livestock must be of priority.

There is an absolute plethora of poultry to choose from.  Researching each species and breed could make a head spin if you do not have an idea of what you want.  Chickens tend to be at the top of the list for fresh and healthy eggs and also as meat option.  Best Chicks to Start With is a quick guide that could get you pointed in the right direction based on your poultry desires.

If you are planning on raising your own chickens by hatching out eggs to increase your flock or sell chicks or fertile hatching eggs -you will of course need a rooster.  So be sure your zoning allows you to have one and that you are not making enemies of your neighbors.

When we moved to our new location this is the case for us.  So we chose a much quieter alternative.  Ducks - depending on the breed will provide an abundant supply of eggs and some breeds are considered dual purpose for meat as well.  We have Pekins and are very pleased with them.  We will be adding the endangered  heritage Ancona in the spring.  We will post an entry on raising ducks in a northern climate later on.
***We beg anyone who is obtaining poultry to do your diligent research on commercial hatchery common practices.  Once one is educated on the inhumane conditions and treatment -  it is unfathomable to me how we can continue to support them with our patronage.  There are reputable breeders of every species and breed all across the country that will ship hatching eggs, chicks, ducklings, poults and keets.  They care about the quality, health and preservation of what they are shipping to you.***

We are currently researching dwarf and semi dwarf fruit trees. Both are considered great options for microfarms. Will do an update once we make up our minds - so many to choose from.  Berries of course are a great add on as well.  You can use the bounty from both to make jam.  Here is a little known shortcut:  Bread Machine Jam  Yum!

Most fruit and berries freeze well so you can enjoy them year round and everyone pulls over for a roadside berry stand. Of course make sure that whatever you choose will do well in your growing region.  Make sure to obtain what is needed for cross pollination as well or you will be waiting, literally, forever for a yield.  There is an elderly lady in our community that has some very mature blueberry bushes that the yield pays her property taxes each year.  Last year we planted 4 blueberry bushes obtained from our friends over at Bass Hill Gardens and raspberry bushes from our friends over at Wee Acre Farm .

Last but not least - Honey Bees - are making their way onto all sized farms.  They are a fabulous addition to a microfarm and it just makes sense.  Hives take up very little room and the benefit is endless.  Pollination equals better crop yield.  Having your own honey source is beyond wonderful and it can be an added income from sales.

This is how we are laying out our microfarm. (Above)  Our property is shaped like this and our house just happens to be situated almost as pictured as well.  I have no idea where the picture came from so as to give it credit.  Here is another one from Mother Earth News (below) based on a 1 acre property size:

I hope this overview on microfarming was helpful.  I would love to hear from anyone who is considering or is already microfarming.  Please share where you are in your journey and let us know what topics you would like to see for future entries.

This post was shared on The Homesteaders Blog Hop 

http://www.theeasyhomestead.com/homestead-blog-hop-12/